Green Travel Antics

The Cure for Kuta

Anybody who might walk out of the Bali airport anticipating steamy green terraced rice fields shaded by elegant palms, or crinkley-eyed Balinese grandparents that offer wisdom in flowery temples, should keep walking. Eat Pray Love brazenly ignored Kuta. Yes, if you follow the road out of the Bali airport for...

3 Worthwhile Lima Destinations

Lima felt like my South American home-base, just as Delhi was my Indian home-base and DC is my North American home-base. And they don’t earn this title because I like them. They earn this title because they lure me back time and time again like little black holes, smugly manipulating...

Rainy Days in Banos, Ecuador

“The rain started three years ago….” breathed the owner of the vegan restaurant in Banos, “…and it hasn’t stopped since.”  I nodded empathetically. I’d experienced the same exasperation towards the relentlessly sunny weather in Los Angeles. I don’t mind the rain… which sure is a good thing to not mind,...

Un Poquito Uncomfortable in Quito

My shifts pass quickly at Café Dios No Muere in Quito, Ecuador, thanks to the constant gossip between the two Quiteno sisters that cook the Cajun-Ecuadorian menu. The chatter fills the tiny first floor of the three story, 400 year old, barrack-turned-restaurant, built into the back corner of the Santa...

Parque Tayrona on the Cheap

I walked…no, I limped, out of Parque Tayrona, feeling quite smug. Yes, my back ached and hunger knotted my stomach, but I felt like I’d gotten away with something. Every traveler I’d met had warned of the park’s high prices, but apparently it would be worth the money. I’d successfully...

Insomnia in Medellin

I am hovering between dreams and reality. My fitful nap came to an end when I sleep- walked out of my hostel bed and into the common area. I awoke to a heavy French accent asking me something that I– in my heavy drowsiness– could not decipher. I responded with a...

How to Keep Cool in Cartagena

I thought that two weeks in Cartagena would have my body used to the heat, yet even on that 14th morning as I stepped into the sunbaked hostel courtyard; the hot blast of air had me instinctively scrambling back into the air conditioned dorm. No, I’d never get used to...

How to be a Tourist in Capurgana and Sapzurro

Accessible only by boat and plane, Capurgana and Sapzurro lie along Colombia’s Carribean coast, fenced by the dense jungle of the guerilla-ridden Darien Gap. Until a guerilla attack on the town in 1999, a tiny airstrip in Cartagena kept both tourists and illicit substances coming and going during the last...

The Cartagena to Capurgana Survival Guide

Solemnly heed the warnings of all horror stories regarding the journey from Cartagena to the isolated jungle town of Capurgana. The hellish voyage involves manifold buses and a torturous 2.5 hour boat ride in which your spinal vertebras will misalign and your ribs will crush into each other. If your...